is there anybody in so cali who can do the same kind of work for less than $100?

'98 GS AT.Magenta Gray Pearl.Accel Spark Plug Wires.NGK Plugs.AEM Short Stack.GS-T Exhaust.AFX Underdrive pulley.RRE Front Lower Bar.Tenzo Rear Upper Bar
Tenzo Rear Lower Bar.Tenzo Front Upper Bar.Energy Suspension Bushings.Energy Suspension Motor Mounts.Radius Rims.Pirelli Tires.Eibach Pro kit Springs.KYB GR2.$15 camber mod

ARD in houston

look for the bannner up top

I had ARD do mine, but I am going to have to have them swap me out for another one or a different butterfly valve cause my idle is whacked up some times, well since this is a tb post, i will go ahead and explain my probs and see what you all think.

Most of you all know what all I did durring my last teardown session that ended up lasting like 4 months... Anyway, after it got put back together, got it running and started having a few minor probs, mostly with idle. I had ARD do the tb and the intake manifold durring the teardown so thats what i am figuring is going on.

When I first got it cranking, it wouldnt start, ended up trying a bunch of shit. Ended up being the cranking fuel, i cut it in half on the DFI through the calmap software, it was at like 16, i knocked it down to 8. It started right up. I figure thats always what the value was in the DFI, so what would cause me to need to change to cranking fuel to get it to start?

So, it runs, and idles, but some times, say i rev to like 2500rpm, it will stay there... lift up on the pedal to see if the cable is stuck, nope, pop the hood, look at the cable, looks fine, and its all the way back, not opened at all, rev it up a little and it will drop back down. the idle speed looking through calmap was bouncing from about 850 to 930. I wanted to speed it up a little so i screwed that star screw in a little thats on the tb. as soon as the engine notices a change, it starts reving up, reving down, stalling, and repeating the process... so after awhile i figured its not gonna adjust or anything, so i unscrew it back out a little, then it goes back to the 850-930 idle. So that confuses me too.

Also, if I drive normally, it usually drives fine, no eratic idle, but if I mash on it through a few gears, it will be stuck open to anywhere between 3500-5000rpms... If i rev up to about redline a time or 2, it will go back down, i figure then it is sticking, but when i have looked under the hood when it sticks at like 2500rpms, the cable is not tight and it is in the idle position....(all the way back against the adjustment screw), I havent had the opportunity to check and see it when it sticks when i am getting on it, cause it always sticks really high and i dont wanna pull over and get under the hood with it turning like 5K....

This said, I have checked for vaccume leaks and boost leaks, none... My fuel pressure gauge is under the hood(mechanical) and it reads a motion trail from 20psi to 60psi, just one big motion trail constantly, doesnt stay in one spot to get a reading... but egts under boost are normal, about 1500 wot running 15-18psi on pump gas. vac reads -3 to -3.9psi at idle. about -9psi out of gear at about 2000 rpms...

What do you all think? under load, the engine drives hella strong, just occational idle problems, its not constant though... only thing i can count on is it sticking if i race someone or get on it pretty hard...

TPS? perhaps that's got a problem.. bad connection or bad it's self. that's my only guess.

Well, I was thinking that myself, but I am unable to find out how to troubleshoot it. Any further input will be much appreciated as it bogles my mind...

borrow someone else's TB or just their TPS. swap.. check problem.. if gone.. there you go. peice O' cake to check that man :)

Yeah, it would be a piece of cake if there was someone around here that would let me use theirs for a hr or 2, but most guys around here are 4g63 powered... bummer, and i am jobless, so i am on a limited budget for awhile. I am gonna call around tomorrow and see if anyone wants to help out, hopefully its just a bad tb, bad seal to the butterfly valve

This may sound stupid...but do you know what your AIC is doing?

I can't tell where mine is, or how much air it's letting in on my stock computer. I don't know if it's possible for the idle port to support enough air for such a high idle, but its the only thing I can think of. Your setup may be causing an inordinate amound of pressure difference in the idle port during WOT. It may be enough difference to shove the AIC in. I've yanked on these things and they are not that difficult to shove in and out. I really have no idea if its possible at all but I suppose my point is that it could be that the computer isnt correcting for a situation like that.

Does it happen only when you stomp on it? It sounds like it's only a problem when you stomp on it.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Gude cams : Test pipe : CAI : Dual air horns : Kenwood KDC 5000
incomming - lower strut bars

<<<<Does it happen only when you stomp on it? It sounds like it's only a problem when you stomp on it.>>>>

Mostly its a problem when i stomp on it, but say i start the car up let it run for a few minutes, get under the hood, rev it up at the throttle body, it will stay at like 2000-2500rpm, but the throttle is closed after i let off... if i rev it up a little, it will rev back down to normal idle...

Hmm probly not it then.

You may want to check that the plate is screwed in tight.

Here's an excerpt from the factory manual about the throttle position sensor.




95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Gude cams : Test pipe : CAI : Dual air horns : Kenwood KDC 5000
incomming - lower strut bars

ya, i cant really help, but i do experience the throttle (gas pedal) sticks sometimes after i let off the gas.. not in the down position, but rather where it rests with no pressure being applied.

i think its due to the butterfly sitting at a different angle than stock. what howell does when they bore the t/b out to 55mm, is change the angle of the butterfly (decrease) to compensate for the bigger opening. stock, i believe is a 10degree angle.

lemme know if that info is wrong, but that is what i beleive and have heard.

also, hehe, brad, your shit is hella modded... your idle is supposed to be a lil off once in awhile...

could be the ecu learnin the extra air from the p&p/bored t/b...
im not sure w/your setup tho, but my idle/de-revvin was a lil screwey the first day or two after my install...

good luck meng

Vegas.. to fix your problem (i've done it on several cars.. including a bored TB from Howell). adjust the stop screw for the throttle while the engine is running.. and screw it in as far as you can without the idle climbing.. that way the closed position is regulated by the stop screw and not the butterfly getting stuck in the TB hole, which is the way it often comes from howell. cause that is what the 'sticking' is that you are feeling.. the butterfly getting wedged into the hole because it's trying to close TOO far. ya need to adjust that screw that stops the throttle plate from closing as far so that it is what the throttle contacts to stop closing instead of the butterfly hitting the inside of the TB opening.

Thanks for the info guys and the fsm info about the tps, I am gonna check the TPS, IAC, and the throttle plate itself today, shine a light behind it and look for any crevices or divits around it. Hopefully its something simple cause i am jobless and my fun money is at an alltime low, but hey, being free 24-7 is worth it! :-)

Definately consider ARD. They bored mine for me. I like it, I have had no problems with it. I am having other issues with the turbo, but none related to the TB.

Ray Vrabel and i chatted on AOL instant messenger just now.. apparently he does boring and matching for the intake. he says a couple of ASOG and 2GNT guys have had jobs done with him. i would like to get feedback.

is there anybody in Southern California who can do it? i would really like to avoid having to ship it.


marc
'98 GS AT.Magenta Gray Pearl.Accel Spark Plug Wires.NGK Plugs.AEM Short Stack.GS-T Exhaust.AFX Underdrive pulley.RRE Front Lower Bar.Tenzo Rear Upper Bar
Tenzo Rear Lower Bar.Tenzo Front Upper Bar.Energy Suspension Bushings.Energy Suspension Motor Mounts.Radius Rims.Pirelli Tires.Eibach Pro kit Springs.KYB GR2.$15 camber mod

i seem to remember somebody saying that there was NO NEED to bore/port the intake since it was already the right size.. is this true?

'98 GS AT.Magenta Gray Pearl.Accel Spark Plug Wires.NGK Plugs.AEM Short Stack.GS-T Exhaust.AFX Underdrive pulley.RRE Front Lower Bar.Tenzo Rear Upper Bar
Tenzo Rear Lower Bar.Tenzo Front Upper Bar.Energy Suspension Bushings.Energy Suspension Motor Mounts.Radius Rims.Pirelli Tires.Eibach Pro kit Springs.KYB GR2.$15 camber mod

anybody?

i got my tb bored by howell, and every now and then i got to hit the gas a bit harder for it to go and that hurts...its like something is holding it back? what should i do or check?

Michael 99gs
Boost It!
Mods:
no time to put in yet:315cc injectors.
Hrc Stage 2
S-FMU
Crane HI-6DI2
Greddy Type S Bov
VC-2
Road Race Catch Can
Greddy Profec B & Switch
Apexi WS Catback
Super Afc
Autometer Boost,
Egt,Tranny Temp Gauge & Cooler
Air/Fuel Light & Digital
Tokico Adjust Struts
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Front & Rear Upper Bar
CarCraft Interior
Sound System= Bring it On

go to the mods page up there^^ and hit up the throttle plate adjusmemt mod... i always check mines, every time the intake pipe is off.. your butterfly may not be gettin fullly horizontal, which would hurt airflow, and ultimately performance.


umm, the intake mani port where the t/b mounts is larger than the stock t/b opening. i dunno the eact measurement, but it lined up well...(b4 portin)...

good luck

Michael - it sounds like you have the same problem vegas is having...like the throttle plate is getting stuck in the body instead of resting on the adjustment screw as it should.

^^^ Try adjusting it like Breezio suggested ^^^


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Gude cams : test pipe : CAI : Dual air horns : Kenwood KDC 5000
incomming - lower strut bars : AutoCommand remote start

Update: I checked every sensor I could find... The throttle plate sticking at high rpm's has went away, just needed to wear in for a week or so I believe.... more like 2 weeks, but as long as it stopped, thats good... As for the car idle and runiing like crap, I set the cam gears both to zero and the engine immediately purrs like a kitten, not grumpy at all anymore, idle is 100% better, spools 10x quicker, BOV works properly now, just one big swoosh, no more bogging down off the line... It is amazing that change did all that... they were set at -2 and 2, I will wait till i dyno tune to mess with them again so I can see where my gains and losses are... goes to show that small things can cause a whole bunch of headaches.

ok gentlemen... back to the topic at hand "other than Howell Automotive who can bore a throttle body right?" is there anybody in So. Cal who does a good job for the same amount (or less?)

Ray V. said he would do it for me for $100 and he would match my intake too. do i really need to "match" my intake? i thought they WERE matched?

-Marc
'98 GS AT.Magenta Gray Pearl.Accel Spark Plug Wires.NGK Plugs.AEM Short Stack.GS-T Exhaust.AFX Underdrive pulley.RRE Front Lower Bar.Tenzo Rear Upper Bar
Tenzo Rear Lower Bar.Tenzo Front Upper Bar.Energy Suspension Bushings.Energy Suspension Motor Mounts.Radius Rims.Pirelli Tires.Eibach Pro kit Springs.KYB GR2.$15 camber mod

glad to here that bro, that was my next guess, i figured it was your timing. i knew someone with the same problem with idling. give us and update with your dyno runs this time, i'm interested to see the results.

Hey, i checked on that "Do I need Intake Port Matched"
The Intake is bigger than stock 52mm TRUE
it is actually about 53-54mm, i measured it, so no you do not have to get it ported
but i did mention if you go 55 OR Bigger you would prob. want that ported, or if you want it for later on, your going to pay more than $25 bucs believe me.
However, It is an OPTION so yes i could get yours to 55mm for $75
but it's not goin to hurt to get the intake done, 1 - 2mm difference,
thats up too you, doesn't sound like alot, but thats the same as saying whats the difference between 55-57mm soo it's all up to your preference.

that seems like a better deal than howell then. is this ARD in houston?

anybody know how much shipping will be?


'98 GS AT.Magenta Gray Pearl.Accel Spark Plug Wires.NGK Plugs.AEM Short Stack.GS-T Exhaust.AFX Underdrive pulley.RRE Front Lower Bar.Tenzo Rear Upper Bar
Tenzo Rear Lower Bar.Tenzo Front Upper Bar.Energy Suspension Bushings.Energy Suspension Motor Mounts.Radius Rims.Pirelli Tires.Eibach Pro kit Springs.KYB GR2.$15 camber mod