Hello all I live in LI NY.

I purchased a 1995 Eclipse GS mt. She had bent rod so I changed the engine with a jnk yard special. From what I see she has a obx intake Manny and some sort of exhuast set up all the way back. I replaced all timing components except oil pump. Crank, cam, knock(middle sensor backside).
So I fired her up and put 2500 miles on her and the whole time the b1 sensor 2 kept coming on and of, until recently. And the whole time at idle the rpm jumps around between 800 and 1100. So I was about a half an hour driving down the highway and she was sputtering, popping, like she shut off. Codes 1390 and I forgot the other two codes number, coil primary no signal and secondary no signal or intermittent. Nowthe cars completely dead, sorry I mean cranks and no start.

So I have checked the following; crank sensor, now as per the Haynes manual the terminals on the connector read from left looking at the sensor, terminal 1 signal(blue/white). terminal 2 power supply(yellow). terminal 3 ground(black/green). If I'm wrong please correct me. The person who owned the car before me had terminal 1 Signal, terminal 2 ground and 3 power.
I get a supply voltage of 9 volts to crank sensor from ecu with my truck trying to jump it.
I get a signal of 8.3 volts from ecu to crank sensor.
Changed asd and fpr, still Dick.
When testing voltage at middle coil plug wire it goes 12v to ground in two secs.
Back to asd, red and white wire is dead no ground or juice Coming out of ecu, I send ground to it relay clicks. steady 12v to middle wire for coil. Trying starting nothing.
FPr juice(12v) to white and red and once I ground it relay kicks on and fuel pump Runs.
Next I ground fpr and asd still no start.

I'm about to stick a rag in the tank and light that bitch up. Lol

Is there another place the asd and fuel relay wires go besides ecu and crank, maybe in the cab?

So if any budding could help me out I would appreciate it.

Does anybody have a wiring diagram for the crankshaft position sensors terminals. Thanks again

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=ECU_Pinout

Use these links as a guide. You said the car is a 95 right?...and you put a junkyard motor in it right? If you didn't know, some of the cars sensors pinouts vary in pin design (flat pin vs. round pin). So you can see how the wiring can get a bit confusing.

Regardless of year, you should go by wire COLOR. You sound like you know what you're doing when you were describing the wire colors with the crank sensor. Most likely you need to test the circuit completely and check for faulty wiring. My guess is a ground is being interrupted somewhere due to faulty/brittle wiring or loose connector wiring between the crank sensor and the coil plug.

Thanks for responding.

1) Okay so when I installed the engine I had put a new crankshaft position pigtail in her. I just coppied the orignal connector, but I was wondering if the previous owner messed with the wires on the original. That's why I was inquiring about what terminal is what. I wired to what the Haynes manual said. I wonder if the wires where messed up would it mess up the new crank sensor?

2) So basically I checked all grounds for ecu, every ground is good. I guess I will inspect the wires from crank to ecu to asd to coil?

3) Idk if this helps but I disconnected the crank sensor and I still had 8.3 volts coming out of signal to crank.

Originally posted by Castle
Thanks for responding. 1) Okay so when I installed the engine I had put a new crankshaft position pigtail in her. I just coppied the orignal connector, but I was wondering if the previous owner messed with the wires on the original. That's why I was inquiring about what terminal is what. I wired to what the Haynes manual said. I wonder if the wires where messed up would it mess up the new crank sensor?

As long as you copied the connections from the old to the new in the same order, you should be fine.

Originally posted by Castle
2) So basically I checked all grounds for ecu, every ground is good. I guess I will inspect the wires from crank to ecu to asd to coil?

Good plan. You described that the car cranks over fine, but no spark. Somewhere along the line between crank sensor, coil, ASD relay you have some sort of interference that is not getting the proper signal to fire the coils. Out of curiosity, do you have a spare coil you can try to use just to rule that out? Need to verify you have power to the coil (middle wire on coil plug), ground, and a signal reference. If you have all 3 of those, the car should technically be getting spark and start.

Originally posted by Castle
3) Idk if this helps but I disconnected the crank sensor and I still had 8.3 volts coming out of signal to crank.

Normal. Test the wire at the ecu and then by the sensor. Verify you have an 8v+ reference on both ends. If you don't, then the wire between those two points has a fault in it and you should run a new wire.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

1) okay I originally copied what the old plug was when I spliced in new pigtail. But I started reading the Haynes manual and also read that same ecu pinout u sent me earlier. And they made sense. What was on the car made no sense. buit did run for 2k + miles. i According to ecu pin out and Haynes manual power should b yellow and signal blue with white stripe and ground black and green stripe. The old plug had had the ground and juice in the wrong spots.
I called a mitsu dealer and they are gonna get back to me on propper wiring.

2) middle wire on coil pack went 12v two seconds later ground. My next thing I did was jummped a ground from the battery to asd red/ white stripe, and relay clicked, but still no fuel pump. So I left the asd jumped and then I jumped fuel pump relay(white with red stripe, 12v) to ground relay clicked and now fuel pump is on. Pressed Schrader valve on fuel rail, sprayed all over, just wanted to see if anything was coming out. So now fuel pump and All coil wires are 12v hot, oh and I hooked up one of those inline spark plug testers to see if I have juice going to plug. Tried starting and no spark to plug, but everything has juice.

3) crankshaft position sensor, checked Signal from ecu and at sensor connector both 8.3.

Originally posted by Castle
1) okay I originally copied what the old plug was when I spliced in new pigtail. But I started reading the Haynes manual and also read that same ecu pinout u sent me earlier. And they made sense. What was on the car made no sense. buit did run for 2k + miles. i According to ecu pin out and Haynes manual power should b yellow and signal blue with white stripe and ground black and green stripe. The old plug had had the ground and juice in the wrong spots. I called a mitsu dealer and they are gonna get back to me on propper wiring.

Haynes states it correct, as well as the ECU pinout. Yellow power, blue/white stripe signal, black/green stripe ground.

Originally posted by Castle
2) middle wire on coil pack went 12v two seconds later ground. My next thing I did was jummped a ground from the battery to asd red/ white stripe, and relay clicked, but still no fuel pump. So I left the asd jumped and then I jumped fuel pump relay(white with red stripe, 12v) to ground relay clicked and now fuel pump is on. Pressed Schrader valve on fuel rail, sprayed all over, just wanted to see if anything was coming out. So now fuel pump and All coil wires are 12v hot, oh and I hooked up one of those inline spark plug testers to see if I have juice going to plug. Tried starting and no spark to plug, but everything has juice.

Like I said in the previous post, if you have the power/signal/grounds good then you should be getting spark. Check these 3 at the coil plug as well, just like you did with the crankshaft position sensor. If all is good, I suspect a faulty coilpack. Otherwise I'm not sure what else to tell you.

Originally posted by Castle
3) crankshaft position sensor, checked Signal from ecu and at sensor connector both 8.3.

Well that's good. I would try swapping out the coil then.

Originally posted by xcasbonx
I would try swapping out the coil then.

Sounds like a coil to me.

U think the coil is the the reason that I'm not getting ground to the asd and for? I ordered one two days ago and denso 02 sensors.

Sorry I meant "fpr" not "for".

If it was just the coil pack the whole time I'm gonna be so Pissed! Lol. Okay cool I will let u guys know what happens when I get the coil pack and wires. Thanks again. Really mean it.

Originally posted by Castle
U think the coil is the the reason that I'm not getting ground to the asd and for? I ordered one two days ago and denso 02 sensors.

Above you were saying that you'd see 12v+ on the coil power wire for ~2sec. This would indicate the ASD is triggering and is expected behavior.

I didn't know how that worked I honestly thought that 12v then ground was a shorting out problem. I'm an idiot. So if the coil is junk that would also make the fuel pump not kick on?

Originally posted by Castle
I didn't know how that worked I honestly thought that 12v then ground was a shorting out problem. I'm an idiot. So if the coil is junk that would also make the fuel pump not kick on?

The fuel pump only kicks on for a ~1 second priming pulse on key-on. It will prime twice, then will no longer prime until the car is started or the ecu is reset. It should run while the car is cranking.

Okay thanks I will let u know when I get the coil in. I called a bunch of dealers today to see if they could help me identify the wires on the crankshaft position sensor connector. So frustrated. No one could help, becuz there lazy P.O.S's.

Does anybody have a pic of there "OEM crankshaft position sensor connector" I will pay lol.

Okay I have a update.

So after I put the FPR, ASD, installed new MSD 8239(with new connector), super conductor 8.5 msd spark plug wires, $20 dollar used ecu, up and downstream denso oe fit oxygen sensors and tested crank sensor and circuit.

I fired her up, cranks for awhile tap gas pedal, finally she fired up puffing white smoke(fuel). She's running, f'ing finally. She fires up no problem after that.

But; 1) still the idle jumps around between 700 and 1100rpm, not constant.

2) sometimes feels sluggish coming out of 1st(stick)

3) in 3rd 4th and 5th at or around 3k she is still hesitant, but not nearly as bad as she use to be.

My next goal which I didn't do is check or change my 3month old spark plugs.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

I forgot to mention which could be the base of my problems. The obx air intake manifold sounds like there's a lot of air getting moved around in there. It's hard to explain the noise, like at first I thought it was my pulleys. And then u will here a deep sucking noise coming out and idle will drop then jump around. Maybe a vac leak. I put a new manifold gasket when I installed the engine.

Any thoughts

Go over the simple stuff.

Pull the plugs, make sure they're gapped around .045 or .050.

You could also pull the throttle body, clean it, pull the IAC from the TB as well and clean that and inspect the plunger is not stuck.

Aside from that put it all back together, ensure your throttle cable is set/tensioned properly, and check for vacuum leaks. Make sure you didnt forget to hook back up a hose or what have you (it happens).

If you've had the negative battery cable disconnected for awhile it will reset the ECU and when you first start it back up it is going to run rough for awhile while the ECU has to "relearn" its fuel trims, etc. Let the car properly warm up to operating temp before you just take off in it.

Assess things from there.

Okay I will check all of that later. I'm at work. I never disconnected the battery neg terminal. I will do that. I will let u know. Thanks
And what do u think of what I said about the sounds coming from the obx manifold.

How do u post pics in these messages.

Could potentially be a leak at the gasket.

If it were me, I would put the stock intake manifold back on with a fresh gaskets. That OBX piece of junk isn't doing much of anything for you other than the 'bling' factor and is probably part of the reason you are having all these symptoms.

This is my thought exactly. Thank god the junk yard engins came with one.

The saga continues! Lol. Pulling my freaking hair out!

Okay so here's the lateiest.

1) bought new ngk platinums, gaped to 47.
Still have the hesitation
2) replaced obx shit can with stock one. All new gaskets,tb gasket, bottom injector orings. Checked iac motor for movement, good. Ohmed iac motor, within spec 51.2 for bnoth tests. Cleaned so u could eat off.
3) reset ecu.

Throttle more responsive, hesitation still there but doesn't seem as bad. Or maybe my mind is playing tricks on me.

Drove around with my blue point data logger.I'm not to sure what these numbers mThrottle
When hestiant spark advanced doenst do any c razy jumping around. Short and long term fuel trim bounce around(+25 to -13). Throttle position, map, iat, ect, all register.

No codes. Did key dance(12 disconnected battery, 55 end of codes).


Here are some things I'm thinking of;

1) compression check.(anybody have the specs)
2) fuel pressure check. (Anybody have the specs)
3) check bottom crankshaft lines up to top dead center. The Cams def line up. There any other way besides ripping the dampner off to check crank)

If any body has any better solutions please feel free. Any help would be much appreciated!

So today I was accelerating from 2nd to third then, power cut, pop, and cel po1391 (intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP Sensor Signals). WTF.

Also today my car was pissing coolant out of a pin hole in my rad! WTF!!!! I can't win with this Pos. I bought kseal, fixed for today.

I know I'm grabbing at straws here but I noticed there was rust in my over flow and I was wondering if that is affecting my coolant temp sensor and that's what's causing my problems. What do u think?

Again thanks for it help

Forgot to mention after that 1391 code popped up it ran the same it has. I'dk