i mean they seem to be cheap.. someone said 25 bucks at machv..

if i get some whats the best ones toget. and where.. how much should i be spending and how hard are they to put on.. sincei have to lift the engine..

they should help alot with launching.. it's like putting traction bars on a rear wheel drive vehicle.. or so i've heard.. gets rid of wheelhop.

but.. that's just what I heard.

A few of us were talking about this the other day in a chat room and from what they said, front ones are cake, back ones are a bitch.


-Tony 98'GST



http://eclipzgst.dyndns.org
AIM: turboclipz or YNOT420247

yea 25 is right for the price. they help, but its not like your gonna beat lambos because of it. once you know what you are doing they are both straight foward. the front one is diffenitly easier. the back one is only harder because of the stuff you have to move to get to it. some of the bolts are tight too. i just did it not to long ago with my dad. if you guys need a little help email me at joshdunn@mac.com. i dont profess to know all the anwsers but i might be able to help a little

Yeah they don't have them on mach v's web site but Summit Racing sells them for $19.95. The front one takes about 30 minutes to install if you don't know what you are doing. To do the rear one just take out the windshield fluid container and the battery and battery tray. You can get to the mount very easily then. Just get the car up on jack stands so you can get under the front. Put the jack up so it can support the engine without the mounts. It's really a quick process once you get under there.





Just go to www.summitracing.com and type ECLIPSE in the search and then go to the 4th page out of 11 for the eclipse and there is the link to order them. I have them and they do a great job to control wheel hop which is a MAJOR problem with our cars.




current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

I just bought them from summit a couple of days ago, $27 shipped. Just do a search for "motor insert" and then look for eagle.

do these inserts fully replace the front or rear motor mounts? or do you have to take your current motor mounts and have the inserts pressed out by a hydraulic press and then have the new ones inserted?

No, they're inserts. They're formed to sit inside the existing mount bushing to reduce or remove flex from the bushing. They work wonders.. they drastically reduced my wheelhop when my tires spin.

Prothane makes a replacement bushing that has to be pressed in.

prothane front and rear motor mounts are insterts. only ht eside mounts are full pressed in replacements.

bring it on............

Speaking of motor mounts. How do they control wheel hop? I could understand them eliminating some of the losses due to engine torqueing (sp??), but it seems to me to control wheel hop, it would be something in the suspension. I believe you that it works, but why? Anybody know??

Star Stage III

From what i learned.. the stock motor mounts are rubber, so it works as a vibration dampener. But under high pressure.. like when the revs are high, the rubber mounts actually cause the engine to bounce up and down. This causes a loss of direct power, and causes the wheels to hop. The poly urethane inserts will keep the engine from bouncing around so much and help power transfer to the wheels.

and, i don't exactly know too much about how it feels yet... haven't gotten around to putting them in. *cry*

motor mount inserts don't help power transfer (i.e. reduce drivetrain loss). they simply keep your drivertrain more stable and reduce motion in th ewrong directions (i.e. your motor moving instead of yoru car, your wheels going up and down instead of rotating, etc.) all that vibraiton IS transfered into your frame and connecting suspension parts, so it does put more stress on yrou axles, and your sanity if you don't like vibration.

bring it on............

lifting the engine is not necessary. they are very easy to put on.

bring it on............

when you put them in what are the steps, this is kinda a new thing and i should expect 30 mins or so can i do it my self? and i dont have to lift the engine ?

is the vibration really that bad when the car is ideling. or is it even that noticable

It's noticable.

SOme people hate it, some people can live with it. For me, the gains outweigh the loss, so i deal..

I know Juan couldn't stand his Prothane mounts so he took them out, because the vibration was too much I think.

Would it be possible to only put in 2 of them and leave the other(s)?
Maybe this would get a little better results and a little less vibration??? This probably won't work since nobody's done it, but just a thought... anyone else's thoughts on this?

Star Stage III

I did that actually. I have stock sidemounts and Energy Suspension front/rear. The vibration is non-existant. The prothanes are stiffer as they are full replacements.

Prothanes are like a hard plastic, Energy Suspension are a hard rubber. AFX is a solid mount. The harder you get the more vibration, the harder you get the less wheelspin you have. A good compromise is the Energy Suspension helps wheels spin and doesn't vibrate too much at all. Solid mount will rattle your teeth.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

I just ordered the front/rear inserts from summit ($27.40 including their "free" shipping and handling fee of 7$ bucks hah!) but my question is if its recommended to get new OEM front/rear stock motor mounts to extract the most out of these inserts?

Reason being because my "home made" fill with polyurethane caulking and rubber stops "fell" out of the motor mounts and my rear ones are flexing like there is no tomorrow, although its not cracked or "broken" per se.

Also, what holds these inserts together? are they screwed to eachother?

Thanks. Also, where can I find the side motor mount replacements from energy suspension/etc?

Vinnie
'97 sebring

I have seen Energy Suspension ads that say you can even use them with BROKEN motor mounts. They are the EXACT shape if the airspace in the stock mount. You get 6 pieces. 2 inserts for the front and 2 washers for the front, and 2 inserts for the back. The stock bolts hold them in place.

current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

The increased vibration w/ the Energy Suspension inserts is hardly even noticeable. No one riding in your car will notice it but yourself (or someone else w/ a dsm maybe). Deffinately worth the $$$, it' a good inexpensive mod.

i was in my friends 96gst before, and we came to stop, i was wtf is that ? something wrong with your car? he was like oh those.. thats from my motor mounts man... im like oh shit lets use my car next time..hehe
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild
2GNT Member #32

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Ive had my inserts in for about a year now. I got used to the vibrations pretty quick. I personally think it feels nice.

I get a good amount of vibration from the ES inserts. Everybody who has been in my car has noticed. Especially when I start the car. I haven't tested them at the track yet but I do believe I feel alot more lift in the front end under hard accleration. They can be a little annoying and oftem have me checking my idle rpm to make sure it is steady. IMO well worth the money!



1998 Eclipse GS,Hahn Stage 2 Turbo Kit w/ Missing Likn and Vortech SFMU,TurboXS Type H RFL,Corbins Digital A/F Gauge,Apex N1 Exhaust, Nuespeed Short Shifter,Autometer Boost,EGT and A/F

I don't think anybody mentioned it, but they sell for $17 on www.ptuning.com and you get a 2gnt discount...I got mine about a month ago for $19 or $21 shipped...good feeling on the launches, and personally I like the vibration, makes me feel like my car has balls...

One word - yes. Best $20 you'll spend. If you're worried about the shakes, I would advise to install the front insert only and drive the car around for a day or two to get used to it. The rear insert will make the car vibrate at idle about twice that much. Once you're rolling you don't notice it. You will need about 20 inches of extension on your socket wrench to do the back one. I agree that the performance outweighs the vibration. Especially at launch.

>One word - yes. Best $20 you'll spend.

Thats enough right there to convince me. I dont even know if my mounts are in rough shape or not, but for $20 who gives a damn... And for the rough ride (vibrations), I already have KYB AGX shocks with coilovers, so Im pretty damn used to it by now... :thumbsup

best cost-effective mod i've done. next to that is the symbroski shifter mod.

Anybody running the solid front mount from howell? I was thinking about trying it, what do you think?

I really don't think you want those unless you only race your car and not drive it on the street...

...or just never take the ladies for a cruise.

Installed the Energy Suspension inserts yesterday and I am pleased with the result. The car feels more solid and it feels like I'm getting more torque to the wheels. Vibration is noticeable but not bad. The front inserts went in easy. The installation of the rears are not hard just a little time consuming. All in all a good return on my money, $21 shipped from ptuning. I definitely recommend them. :thumbsup

Thanx to Sean Gordon & joshacu for the writeups.

>I know Juan couldn't stand his Prothane mounts so he took
>them out, because the vibration was too much I think.

yeah, the prothane's F/R inserts I had were _obnoxiously_ loud at that NVH peak our motors have starting at 5000 rpm. Couldn't stand it so I took em out. If you have any rattles now, they will get way worse after.

With only the front insert, wheel hop still occured for me. After putting in the rear, drop clutch launches from any rpm were possible, with only wheelspin as a result. I never felt the need to try the sides.

juan

>yeah, the prothane's F/R inserts I had were _obnoxiously_ loud
>at that NVH peak our motors have starting at 5000 rpm.
>Couldn't stand it so I took em out. If you have any rattles
>now, they will get way worse after.

What's this NVH peak?

>After putting in the rear, drop clutch launches from any rpm
>were possible, with only wheelspin as a result.

Sign of mad torque skillz

>I never felt the need to try the sides.

Filling the side mounts help torque when turning.

>What's this NVH peak?

NVH is an industry term for Noise, Vibration and Harshness.

Notice next time you rev the motor through its range. It revs smoothly up till around 5200 or so, then gets a little harsh, then smooths out once past 6000 or so till redline. It is related to the inline 4 cylinder motor being inherently unbalanced, as compared to other designs (an inline 6 for example). The 4g63 deals with this by using balance shafts. One of the mods 4g guys do is take these out to reduce parasitic losses (and avoid timing belt failure if the drive mechanism breaks).

Manufacturers try to reduce NVH as much as possible, but usually after they have all the other performance parameters worked out. For example, most of the complaints with the Saturns when they first came out was the the motor was very harsh in the upper rev ranges. The GM engineers worked for years on this, as it was one of the largest customer complaints.

It also applies to more areas of the car than the motor, but that is the main application AFAIK.

Ah, cool :thumbsup, well not cool }( I just noticed the NVH peak when I put the motor mounts in, I thought mabey something was loose since I took out my EGR completely (and cut 1/8" steel plates w/ a welder to block things off) because everything would shake at 5200 till like 5800 or so and then run from their up completely smooth.

Uhhh, wtf is up with this post from JANUARY 2002?
-=B-=

Someone must have used the search button :rolleyes.

How do get a discount from PTuning?

Click on the PTuning add at the top when you see it, or click this link below... (if it works it will tell you a discount code used).

http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/banners.php?op=click&bid=1

Thanks alot.:7