Did some work on the 2.4L oil pan this weekend. Got the fittings welded on the oil pan flange I cut a month back and cut the sheet metal for the sides.







Since the forum has been slow lately, thought you choads would like something to look at.

Nice welds. Looks as good, if not better than the HRC welds.

Being that I am an old fart I had to look up Choads in the urban dictionary :)

Choads

A medium sized boy, of course with a d!ck that is wider than it is long and a rhyming sirname.

Characteristics include:-
Deep Arrogance
Knowitallism
and a wide awful taste in music

Nice work, Terry!

Looks good terry.

Nice. You need a cutting table though!

should've cut yourself a crankscraper into that.

This isnt the last pan I am going to make. I might make a scraper out of the next one. The Next pan I am going to make with thread in fittings as well.

I would like to build a cutting table Deej, maybe one day when all the other projects are finished..lol

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
maybe one day when all the other projects are finished..lol Terry

haha, I know that feeling all to well.

terry + fab = imminent death

Originally posted by turbo8u
terry + fab = imminent death

????

any reason why the fittings are in this weird position ?

srt oil pump ???

Alain

srt4 pump. yes sir thats why.

A easier way would be to hack the srt pan for crossmember, remove the filter assebmly from the srt pan and thread the two holes with a 3/8 npt tap. Also make sure a drain plug is welded to the srt pan because it will have to be removed for clearance. I go by the name BABEBOY on ASECLUB.NET here is a link to my build page http://aseclub.net/forums/My-24-build-t103480.html

Yeah its easier if you want to tig weld and deal with aluminum. I wont be Tig welding for another year or so and I dont allow other people to build my projects for me. Personally I wouldnt call it easier. By starting from scratch I can define exactly how my pan is shaped and how much oil it contains. A crank scraper can be incorporated into the pan without spending another 1xx.00.

So if easier means your lazy and want to hack up a srt4 pan...go for it. I prefer to design the parts to fit the application. I dont want to hack someone else's design to fit my car.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Yeah its easier if you want to tig weld and deal with aluminum. I wont be Tig welding for another year or so and I dont allow other people to build my projects for me. Personally I wouldnt call it easier. By starting from scratch I can define exactly how my pan is shaped and how much oil it contains. A crank scraper can be incorporated into the pan without spending another 1xx.00. So if easier means your lazy and want to hack up a srt4 pan...go for it. I prefer to design the parts to fit the application. I dont want to hack someone else's design to fit my car.

No matter if its hacked or fabbed it is another option for people that works thats all im saying. If I had more time I would have made my own. None the less the work looks top notch. When I was contiplating mine I came up with something to get rid of all the bends/curves it looked more like this\/ \/

the SRT-4 pan has been detailed quite a few times already. We actuall y have a post with all the pertinant infomation. This post is not made to tell people that a fabricated pan in the only route.

I did not square off the inner edge of my oil pan flange for a reason. I want oil to flow into the bottom of the pan with as minimal resistance as possible and I didnt want to give the oil a chance to puddle around the gasket. Granted a crank scraper does that, I would prefer to make a scraper site 3/8 lower than flange.

the first pan I had I made out of sheet metal and it held so much fucking oil it was ridiculous. Skrilla ended up with it and it held somewhere in the neighborhood of 7 quarts :afro

im fine with an aluminum pan thats "hacked". It's lighter and doesn't cost as much as fabricating and welding a steel one out.

true if you can tig weld josh....I cant so the aluminum pan would be more expensive for me. This pan is only costing 100.00 or just under.

So has there been any updates on this oil pan fab... Im putting together an oil pan for my 2.4 and i was thinking of going the whole custom pan route... I started to cut and weld an OEM steel 2.4 pan but think that im going to ditch it and just do a custom pan... I would love to see photos of your build as u progress...

-J

The motor is together already. Minus the timing equipment and head. I will get more pictures of the pan up next week.

all you need is a will to keep it, eh?

Not much will left here though!

did you make that oil pan flange urself? If so how much did it cost you to make, or should i say, how much would it cost to be made for someone else?

It cost like 40.00 for the steel and 1000.00 for the Plasma cutter.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
true if you can tig weld josh....I cant so the aluminum pan would be more expensive for me. This pan is only costing 100.00 or just under.

You can mig aluminum.

Tig welding is easy as hell. Setting up a machine and going back and forth between materials is a bit of a pain though. Using one without a pedal is quite a challenge too.

Why can't you tig for another year?

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS
Tig welding is easy as hell.

Oh boy, here we go...

Because I have a concrete driveway to lay this year. I wont buy the Miller Tig for next year. 10,000 on the driveway is enough for one summer. spending another 3500.00 on a welder will wait.

I dont want to MIG aluminum.

Terry, check out the Miller Maxstar 200dx :thumbsup whenever you do decide to start tigging. It's amazing.

100$ isnt bad for a pan. I like the one-off two-four parts ;) It's interesting to see what everyone ends up with to get it going.

TIG welding is easy.

So if I wanted to ask to have a flange made, id have to pay $1040.00, for a plasma cutter and some steel? Or would there be some way to pay for the steel and some labor for the cutting and all that... im thinking of putting together a custom pan instead of hacking the steel stratus pan I have.

-J

It would be the price of the steel (which has gone up) and prolly 40.00 labor.

Josh, I was looking at the Synchrowave 200dx. it retails for 3200.00 and my uncle works for airgas and can order it for me at resale value which is prolly around 22-2400. Not bad really just a lot of other things i want to do this year.

The Maxstars are DC only and miller recommends you do not weld aluminum with them...it says it right on thier site.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
The Maxstars are DC only and miller recommends you do not weld aluminum with them...it says it right on thier site. Terry

oops, sorry it's the dynasty 200dx ac/dc. 115v and 230v switchable helps a LOT if you go to a friends or something to weld a cage or something. Very small machine, has pulsing (if you like that sort of thing...) and HF start of course. I ran a lift arc setup at first with a bronze scratch plate and it worked perfect, just clamp the plate in the area and you never contaminate tungsten.

anyway, the synchowaves are the shit for welding aluminum...and if you have the space for it.

Keep us updated, and don't be afraid to send me something to weld, lol

OK then, Dynasty it will be, thanks for the help. I will keep your offer in mind...I might need that.

Terry

looks great so far when can I pick it up :)

Kinda ran out of Oxygen....should have a new tank by monday

Josh...my uncle is going to see what the dealer cost of a dynasty 200dx on monday....just may have by the end of next week!

Terry

That's some nice work as usual Terry.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Josh...my uncle is going to see what the dealer cost of a dynasty 200dx on monday....just may have by the end of next week! Terry

youre gunna love it man. I recommend using the pulse feature when you weld the sides to the flange, it will help control heat and ultimately minimize distortion. Also doing 3 inch welds and turn it and do one on the other side and do that over and over until its welded out will help too. clamping it too and do half and finish later. all those will help prevent any additional maching after its welded. I have some kickass pulse settings written down if you want them. also, on every tank ive ever built after welding the outside corner, you fuse weld the inside...pretty much industry standard for tanks.

nice work! how are you going to do the sump just bending it down? Are you making a new crossmember or notching the stocker? I thought about making a tubular crossmember when I got into it but never went through with it.

are you using acetylene? ever look into mapp?

thats going to be fun welding around the back of those AN fittings! ;)

My intentions were to mig this pan. The Tig i going to take a lot of practice to learn. I would appreciate your settings, that will give me something to work with.

I had panned on welding both sides of the seam and the short stitch method (as I call it) I learned from a body shop we rented space to back when I was in the shop. Only in body work you end up doing 1" passes. I will give 3 inch a shot though now that you recommend it.

As for the AN fittings, they will be fun. I was contemplating removing the shielding gas tube from the mig torch and making a smaller one just so its easier to get behind the fittings.

shit well if you're just learning to TIG then you dont want to start out with the pulse feature. its designed to minimize distortion and burn through in thin materials though. if its timed right, it pulses high and thats when you feed rod and move then it slopes back down and cools and starts over again. The timing is forward speed to pulse time with fill rod, it can be tricky but very helpful once you dial it. I dont like it so much to be honest but if you dont have a foot pedal on your TIG (my old job was on/off button) so you have to learn to adapt.

if you want to send me your pan ill TIG the flange for free. I can get around those fittings no prob with my torch.

Dude, If you had a sheet metal bender you would be set with those bends!

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&itemID=1493&keyword=28057&cm_mmc=PMD_CSE-_-NexTag-_-Product_Terms-_-Sheet_Metal_Brake_Stationary_Stand


only 130$

dont need one. bends are easy with a torch. Tig is on order too.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
dont need one. bends are easy with a torch. Tig is on order too.

cool man :thumbsup

I just picked up an older synchrowave 250 with a water cooler, sick!

Josh I sent you an email a while back asking for advise on some details and you never responded, what gives?

All I have left to do is Weld in the Turbo Drain and Oil Drain plug.

Terry

So.....whats your paypal addy?

excellent work with the MIG Terry :cheers

I don't check my inbox much but ill do so now...

You pretty much have a full fab shop now man! Plasma, TIG, MIG, oxyfuel, start a biz and hire my ass! I only charge 45 an hr to TIG....

edit: you need a tubing bender

Its official. This pan is a failure. Anyone wanting to say I told you so can do so now.





It looks nice but thats about it. I got the drain plug welded in today and got it all cleaned up and painted. Intentions were to take it to the machine shop tomorrow because there was a tiny bit of warpage from welding the flange. It wasnt enough to justify it but i figured what the hell. Well, after i welded the bottom of the pan on, the shallow section got pulled upwards warping the flange. I figured the ides were strong enough to avoid this. I was wrong, no surprise there. the Warpage is around 1/4". Even after i bolted it own and tightened everything, there was a gap right below the rear main seal that wont seal up I am sure, otherwise the pan might work.

I guess I stepped just outside my limits. I will stick to structural welding from now on. I am tempted ot just stick the 2.4 in the corner on the floor, let it rust to all hell and forget its there.

SEND IT TO ME AND I WILL FIX IT FOR FREE

I am the master of working shit like that my friend, trust me its not ruined. Metal has a memory and it wants to come back and ill make it true or die trying.

A big part of welding is distortion control my man. Ive done structural welding too and thats no different. 1" full pen welds will move around a lot after 30 passes if they arent braced! im sure you know...

wait till you make a tack weld with your tig on stainless and watch it pull :thumbsup

no big deal homie, send me an e-mail turbo8u@gmail.com

p.s- and just clamping it down while welding wont do shit, lol

actually, if you want to jump in the chat or something ill just run you through it real quick and you can fix it with your new tig :) its just fuckin metal dude...move it back :cheers

looks sick and youre running that 2.4 pansy

damn, it turned out awesome though Terry.

Mine warped when we notched it by nearly 1/2". We clamped it down to a drill press table and over-trued it with a pirece of flat stock under it, then hit it with a torch until it came back into shape. Seals fine...

Well, some good news. With a torch, few pairs ofr vise grips and the motor, I was able to striaghten like Dino mentioned. Its within 1/8" varience. I took it to the machine shop to mill it a bit to bring it closer together. When bolted down its flat as it should be so it looks like things will work.

I think i will paint it bright purple.

Josh I am very curious as to what your advise was. Shoot me a PM.

Terry

off topic but I think I started a really nice trend when I painted my 2.4 block orange hemi many years ago in 2003

since then I saw several more ones , always looking nice :)

Alain

I never saw yours. Mine is painted hemi orange for other reasons. look in one of the pictures at the backround. I have a true antique car with a hemi orange motor that was painted Hemi orange at the factory at Lynch road Plant in Detroit Michigan. I never painted a block an antique color because i thought it was cool to mock another person, I did it because I look at that color everyday.

And the correct color your looking at is Street Hemi Orange....to call it Hemi Orange is like calling Ford Blue just plain blue. There were 2 different Hemi Orange colors.

Nice try Alain.....find another.

Man I am so tempted to get a flange and put together my own oil pan. Im currently modding the 2.4 steel pan and its looking like frankinstines ass with all the cuts here to shorten and cuts here to fill... Your pan looks great i must say... Now I just gotta find someone to make me that flange, since ur last quote was somewhere near 1500 or so... lol... Great pan, and great work.

-J

Modifying that stamped pan is no different than what I am doing. Actually your would be slightly easier. and a lot less work.

Terry

Originally posted by EclipseGSRT-4
frankinstines

Someone clearly failed that book report. ;)

That's great, Terry. I'm glad things worked out in your favor;
Any particular reason for choosing purple?

Originally posted by Fallen4ng31

Originally posted by EclipseGSRT-4 frankinstines

Someone clearly failed that book report. ;)

Thats what late night posting will do to you... But I cant sneak anything by u now can I? lol, 2gnt's professional proof reader...

But yea, I have the double layer steel pan so its a real pain to mod, not only that its gonna look fugly with all the welds and all that running all over it. If I make a full pan Ill get exactly what I want, and exactly what I designed... Plus I just like to make things... lol...

Well build what you are going to want but if you cant get the welds to lay right on that stamped pan, making your own isnt going to be any better. Your going to get the same welds on the new pan.

My advice is to practice on light gauges sheet metal before you go making one from scratch if your having a hard time. Like body work, preparation is very important. Try welding in small amounts, say 1" increments and alternating the welds 180 degrees away from one another.

Terry

Its not really laying the welds thats the issue, its just the look of it, its the welds all over the place from cutting and moving things around... Id rather build a whole pan from scratch, im pretty good with fab work but im out here in New Hampshire and have no clue where anything is out here... I used to know where everything was in my old home town, but its different out here and their prices are kinda out there (i guess being known and a regular helps alot with that kinda thing) It was so bad that I went out and bought my own welder to weld in a new flex section on my exhaust because the exhaust shops wanted way too much money for just a cut and weld for the flex section... One guy actually said close to 400 as if he was giving me a deal, in my old home town it woulda been a 50 dollar fix. So its time to try and build some new relationships with some businesses out here... now to find someone with a plasma cutter and some metal to make me a 2.4 oil pan flange i can play with.

-J

your not using flux wire are you?

No, the welder i was using at the time was a friend of mines that ownes a body shop and ect... and he has shielding gas, i think its a argon mix i forgot the percentage... but the welder i own is mig ready, i just dont have the tank and gas yet... but the welding i was doing was with the gas...

-J

The gas is 75/25 Argon/CO2. Practice with your welding. the new pan will look just as bad if you dont work harder at it. I run 100 percent CO2 but thats a totally different matter behind why. My advise for anyone is to use 75/25.

I am still waiting back from the machine shop in the final resurface of the flange. I should have it tomorrow.

Well after the machine shop had a few days of belt sanding the flange, the pan is ready for test and service! Its not perfect but its more than close enough to seal.

Next step, the passenger mount. That should be an easy one.

yea, i forgot the exact mixture for his setup. Plus hes been welding for a while so he was the one that knda guided me with welding. I think this is going to be a project im going to jump into since ive got a while before i put my motor in. I was in a car accident that left my car totaled... I was driving home when a girl made a left turn w/o yeilding to me since i had the right-of-way. She was on her cellphone and not paying attention and turned right infront of me. So now begins the insurance process. So ill have some time to work on a few things...

EDIT (oh yea, see if you can take some photos of the build of the motor mount. Ive been dying to seem some good photos of the 2.4 motor mount build... what mount plate are you using on the engine? SRT-4, Stratus, PT Crusier)

-J

If you really want a flange i can cut one for ya. Pay for the material and throw 20.00 my way and you got a deal.

The mount I am not sure now that I have a TIG. I am thinking stainless and full custom. Josh posted some pictures a while back of a gorgeous mount he made and I will admit i am kinda jealous.

Yea, now that i think about it, i think i seen this mount also... Damn was that thing was nice... I think im going to go the route of using the stratus engine mount and fab up the motor mount to connect to the stock stratus engine mount... I think i found another 2gnt in good condition for 3k... Ive also got my eyes on a combo deal i heard about... some guy has a 92 300zx 2+2 and a 98 2gnt GS for sale for 4k as a package deal... so if this guy is for real i think im going for the package deal, if not then im going to check on the other 2gnt for 3k. I just hope that girls insurance doesnt try and take forever because i need a car to get back and forth to work in now... So how much is materials for this flange +20 for ur time... also im not using the srt-4 pump, so would u have to make a different flange w/o the holes for the oil lines and etc?

-J

I will send you a PM.

you guys talking about this one?

<a href="" target="_blank"><img src="" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I made that thing 3 years ago, you should see what I make now!

Damn Josh. Thats a work of art right there. Impressive!

Thats the one I seen, not the same picture tho, That is a work of art right there... Im so sad that ill be getting rid of my 2.4 project due to my car being totalled by a girl that dosnt know that u have to yeild to oncoming traffic... I ended up buying an Mr2... I hope u guys dont hate me now... But if anyone is intersted in a 2.4 motor check in the BST forum in the next few days as it will be posted there. Also my email is joshua.pottle@gmail.com but damn i wish i had another 2gnt...

-J

Pan holds 6 & 1/3 quarts of oil.

Our stock pan with 5 quarts fills up to an imaginary line that is 2" down from the flange.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Pan holds 6 & 1/3 quarts of oil. Our stock pan with 5 quarts fills up to an imaginary line that is 2" down from the flange.

nice man. My first fabrication project when I started out was the 2.4L pan out of steel, something similar to what youve got but mine was pretty crude. It held 7 or 8 quarts I don't remember exactly. With your TIG im sure youre going to want to play with aluminum once you get that going strong....so I see another one in the future. I need money bad so im seeling my dynasty, buying a maxstar and keeping the difference. I have a few stainless contracts to work on and the maxstar is still a nice ass machine. 80% of my work is DC anyway. I dont use the AC much to be honest. My car is for sale, every fucking thing is for sale...life kinda lags right now.

nice work though man im stoked youre sticking with it

..:cheers

Originally posted by turbo8u
you guys talking about this one? <a href="" target="_blank"><img src="" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> I made that thing 3 years ago, you should see what I make now!

Is that a work bench at the Camp Pendleton Hobby shop? :p

How thick is your flange?

1/4"