First question: Do these safty braces need cut down so they dont break the speed gear off?

2nd: How do you replace this bearing? It feels really lose compared to the bearing thats on my old diff. The outer cage moves up and down alot.

The "safety brace" is a good thing. It helps keep the diff pin in place when people want to do one wheel burnouts. It does not need to be cut down.

The bearing is press fit. You will need to press it off and press it back on.

i guess i'm anal....

Originally posted by 420agreenvilleSC
i guess i'm anal.... http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo269/eclipse8129/July-17_1325. jpg

post pics when your diff pin makes an awesome hole in the gearbox!

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G

Originally posted by 420agreenvilleSC i guess i'm anal.... http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo269/eclipse8129/July-17_1325. jpg

post pics when your diff pin makes an awesome hole in the gearbox!

yea, cuz w/out these bracket's, they do that...??? :wary i'm not doin one wheelers ronin...

from readin on here and searchin around ppl say that the "ears" need to be cut down alittle becuase they are to tall and chip the speed sensor gear and break it off while spinning. I know what the safty braces are for thats why i bought them to install with the PG LSD. I just dont wanna install the diff and then have to remove it again becuase its break gears

Originally posted by rshissler
from readin on here and searchin around ppl say that the "ears" need to be cut down alittle becuase they are to tall and chip the speed sensor gear and break it off while spinning.

Hmm. News to me. I've installed 4 or 5 sets of these with no issues, but cutting off the tops will harm nothing. Better safe than sorry (if some are saying that they had that issue). Possibly an older style diff pin saver than what they have out?

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by rshissler from readin on here and searchin around ppl say that the "ears" need to be cut down alittle becuase they are to tall and chip the speed sensor gear and break it off while spinning.

Hmm. News to me. I've installed 4 or 5 sets of these with no issues, but cutting off the tops will harm nothing. Better safe than sorry (if some are saying that they had that issue). Possibly an older style diff pin saver than what they have out?

That was the old design. Any current ones in the last couple of years or so do not need to be trimmed.

I had this discussion with Mikey when he bought his.

Originally posted by teklein

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by rshissler from readin on here and searchin around ppl say that the "ears" need to be cut down alittle becuase they are to tall and chip the speed sensor gear and break it off while spinning.

Hmm. News to me. I've installed 4 or 5 sets of these with no issues, but cutting off the tops will harm nothing. Better safe than sorry (if some are saying that they had that issue). Possibly an older style diff pin saver than what they have out?

That was the old design. Any current ones in the last couple of years or so do not need to be trimmed. I had this discussion with Mikey when he bought his.

Aha, good to hear. I thought I was going a little loopy (well, more than normal).

MB

mine didn't have to be, but because i'm an anal butt monkey, i trimmed it even w/ the diff plateau. it made me feel better.

read this http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=86055&hilit=diff+pin+brackets good info there.

taken from there, "Update 7-24-05: This is the part number for the newer "diff saver plates" that are shorter than the above noted brackets. These brackets can be bolted in as-is, they do not need to be cut down."

JUST LEAVE ME ALONEEEEEEEEE I'M ANAL... :shrug ...

well that link says that i should cut them down but i dunno. Guess i'll just install it and see if i need to trim it or not.

No no. Don't just install and go. You are better off cutting that down to be on the safe side.

At least do this; put the diff in (without installing the bell housing) and see if it hits when you slowly spin. Keep in mind that if it comes real close, then it will prossibly hit. There is some slight flex in all those parts when you put pressure on the set-up.

And that is sharp metal vs little baby plastic piece.

MB

lol. that link says to trim them if you have diff brackets made BEFORE 2005. look at the bottom of the link and what I quoted from it.

Like i said, i trimmed mine even w/ the diff plateau, took 3 mins w/ a cut off wheel w/ a dremel.

k next question anyone know the part number for that bearing????

Originally posted by rshissler
k next question anyone know the part number for that bearing????

Um, what bearing?

umm 2nd question i had was how to replace the bearing and you guys said to pull it off and press a new one on. I cant find the part number for it on CAPs

start here, it may show or help you: http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/neonfsm/2000/EPL_21.pdf

Ronin your a tool sometimes. The old process was to trim them. I still do regardless. Less rotational mass where the extra metal isnt needed......Thats anal!


As for the diff bearing, unless you have a press, take it to a shop and let them press it off and press a new one on.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Ronin you're a tool sometimes.

Fixed for ya
At least my grammar is correct. :P

no luck on the part number as of yet.

Here's a Mopar number right off the box on my shelf; 04567025AB

http://www.2gnt.com/?d=LSD_and_Diff_related_parts

Originally posted by bullettdsm
Here's a Mopar number right off the box on my shelf; 04567025AB

Above part number for atx differential

05134957AA for mtx differential. Mtx differential is shorter, which is why the atx tab sits taller.

Originally posted by Purpose

Originally posted by bullettdsm Here's a Mopar number right off the box on my shelf; 04567025AB

Above part number for atx differential 05134957AA for mtx differential. Mtx differential is shorter, which is why the atx tab sits taller.

Hmm, funny strange. Got these from my dealer buddy who has bought these for me before. Maybe he got confused or sent the wrong ones. I'll check that out.

MB

Originally posted by bullettdsm

Originally posted by Purpose

Originally posted by bullettdsm Here's a Mopar number right off the box on my shelf; 04567025AB

Above part number for atx differential 05134957AA for mtx differential. Mtx differential is shorter, which is why the atx tab sits taller.

Hmm, funny strange. Got these from my dealer buddy who has bought these for me before. Maybe he got confused or sent the wrong ones. I'll check that out. MB

Well, both of my dealer contacts got back to me and they both tell me that the number is for an MTX (one of them is a well known, long time member of neons.org). Seeing as how I used the bearings before, and I know both of the sources I used are believable, I'll go with them being correct.

There is certainly no problem with using the longer tabs. As some have posted, there is no interference to be caused by using the taller tabs. Here are the tabs I installed yesterday.





Here is a shot of an atx diff



The atx diff pin sits taller, and that is how the bracket was designed. Again, it can be used for either application. Just thought I'd add the info for those concerned about rotational mass and such.

Here is a thread about it from neons.org.

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=86055

Oh. When installing the tabs, the pin holding the diff pin should be removed. Gives the diff pin a bit of wiggle room. This will extend the life of the diff pin, for those addicted to open diff burnouts. under heavy load, the axle comes in contact with the diff pin. Wit the the tabs in place, and retaining pin removed, the axle will contact the diff pin in different spot.

the pin holding the diff pin should be removed?!?!?!?!? That scares me. :eek i dont want any shit wiggling around in my tranny

Originally posted by Purpose

Originally posted by bullettdsm Here's a Mopar number right off the box on my shelf; 04567025AB

Above part number for atx differential 05134957AA for mtx differential. Mtx differential is shorter, which is why the atx tab sits taller.

Well, now I'll ask, what the hell are you talking about? The part number I posted (which you referenced) is for the diff bearing. You went into a disertation on the diff tab savers.

Um, whatever.......

My bad. Got off track. AS stated, that is the correct part #

DO NOT REMOVE THE PIN THAT SECURES THE DIFF PIN. That is some of the worst advice I have seen posted. If your worried about that little pin coming out then weld it in.

for anyone else that might be looking for the diff bearings, RockAuto.com sells both the 5spd and autos. just got a set for 15 shipped.