I have a 97 clipse rs and have put 3 transmissions in it in the past sewveral months. It all started this time last year when somehow the arm that rides the TOB bent and cracked. i bought a spare tranny and put the arm from that on the old tranny. Ever since then my input shaft bearing (the coller that goes around the shaft keeps braking). What could be causing this? What would i need to look at when i am rebuilding this tranny besides synqs, and a input shaft bearing? Where is somewhere afordable (being $500-$700) That i could purchase a fully rebuilt tranny from? Last but not least would any other tranny fit besides the nv-t350?

take your trans w/ the bellhousing off, to a local trans shop for rebuild quotes.

If the trans's gears arent popping out, or nothing else is wrong, I'd just replace the input shaft bearing assembly. You'll need a press to get the old out and put the new in.

why does it keep breaking??

I called the shop that rebuilt my motor and they told me it would be cheaper to buy one but I have 3 and would rather rebuild one so i will know my tranny is new. I'm not sure why my inputshaft bearing keeps failng? The shop told me somehow I am installing it wrong and it is stressing the collar I dont see how but if i get them to install the tranny nest time they want $500 and up. By tha way 2g dad is my I He's better at computers and i cant find the time to get on here he has much more knowledge than i do. lol

So you're the one that 2gDad keeps complaining about LOL

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
So you're the one that 2gDad keeps complaining about LOL

Yep, that's him. PLEASE help him out guys. I've about run out of ideas and we've put way too much money in that car already. He needs a "cost effective" solution, because he just won't give up on the car (despite my best efforts in that direction). ; )

i'd contact stangmurdera, or phsebring on this board. They have trannies from what i heard.

I have several mtx's looking for a new home.

Yeah I beleive that is one reason he is going bald. He kinda skipped the grey hair when I purchased my clipse. lol

I through both the tranny's in the back of the clipse and rode to 2 shops i know pretty well. The first one has constant work and is extremly reputable . The guy said he didn't feel like fooling with it and if I couldn't find anybody he knows a guy thatl due the rebuild (including synchros and an iputshaft bearing) if i could leave it there a week or two. The second one is a mile down the road a backyard garage type deal mainly does mud trucks, rebuilds 4-wheel drive tranny's but said hell to mine for the same reason the other guy did, The Synchros. He said the Synchros and brass rings are a P.I.T.A. Are these Synchros really that hard? On top of that i called my local dealer for pricing I was unawear just 3rd and 4th syncros alone, excluding the rings $328.82 the rings $75.00 a peice. Also several other shops in the city i called for pricing said 6 hours of labor and anywhere from $575-$800 Damn those synchros. Do these prices sound right? I thought about attempting a rebuild myself, Does anyone have advice or directions? Does anybody on this forum rebuild tranny's within 100 miles of the zipcode 24563 or 24550 for a reasonable price? Would it be worth it to take syncros outa both tranny's and make on good one but, both tranny were grinding in to some gears?

rebuilding a 3.94 isnt bad, just tedious. Youll need a shop press, and a rebuild kit. BK414WS on http://www.allstategear.com/BearingKits.htm is the kit you want. That'll start you somewhere. I'd call them first to ask what exactly comes with the kit. the 'WS' in the part number indicates that it comes with synchros.

Be aware, when replacing synchros, most aftermarket kits are all brass. Having said that, the traditional t350 trans fluid that is specific for us is obsolete because the synchros are not fiber/paper-backed. IIRC, atf+4 will work in that case, but you can still use amsoil syncrhomesh if you'd like, just a little more costly.

Thanks a whole whole lot. like I said before I suck at computers and can't find any parts I'm looking for online, you guys know what your talking about. This will save me a lot time and money considering I just got layed off and had to return to my prior place of employment (subway) which I love subway don't get me wrong but it's a hellofa paycut from pipe welding. lol. Now all i gotta do is find a local reputable mechanic. Which I think he's off this week so when I find out I'll post the total cost of how much to rebuild a t350 tranny Labor, Parts, and Agony. I'm going to try replaceing the motor mounts after I obtain rebuilding my tranny because I have come to the conclusion that is the only thing I can think of that's stressing the inputshaft bearing. I rebuilt my motor mounts about 2 years ago using window weld but I also drive it everyday like I'm in the Indy 500 which probably has alot to do with it. My dad once said "I would make a damn good parts tester for durability". I think that was when I went through the set of tires i got for christmas in 2 months. Now my tires don't spin that much after learning the cost of the second set, my wallet cried for a long time. now i just keep a set of junkyard steelys handy. Thanks for all the help I'll keep in touch.

if you have your bellhousing to engine bolts (18mm) tight to about 70 ft. lbs, there's shouldnt be stress on the input shaft bearing. When you get the tranny apart, you may find something misaligned causing 'stress'

After what money I saved up I decided to just go the cheap route . I baught an input shaft bearing 60$ and had it pressed in for 10$. New clutch free (under waranty) . I bought prothane mounts 75$(I will never I repeat never get inserts again) they do what they're spose to but, the hell with installation . Cheap headers (E-bay) 65$. RED loctite 5$ to seal the tranny ( I could not find recomended sealant but loctite is working fine, no leaks). After I got the trans put back together is when it got fun. I pulled the whole motor and tranny to check everything over and went from there. After the tedious installation, fresh chnge of fluids,a few bolts left over, and plenty of profane language and busted knuckles later she fired right up and has been running fine over a week now. I also removed my AC compressor, being as I had to get a smaller belt (dayco) it did fine, didn't wine or anything. The other day wen going up a hill it just blew off? I haven't put the new one back on being I kinda like the extra few horse power. Hopefully this tranny will last this time I'm not sure if it's the new inputshaft bearing, the tranny bolts being torqued right (thanks for the reply didn't know the specs), New arm and TOB, prothane mounts, or what else but Thanks a bunch. Now the turbo is next on the list.....

congrats

you have a different parts definition that the dealer has.

To the manufacturer......what you are calling a snchro is actually called the "stop ring". They are about 40.00 each (3-5th)

The synchro is the stationary gear and slider that is used on the shafts to interlock into the opposing gears. those are about 275.00 for 3/4 and 242.00 5th-rev is i recall. Its been a couple years since i last priced one out.

the dealer will not sell you any parts for 1/2 unless you buy the entire output shaft and that was 1260.00 in 2004.

I suspect you either have or had a problem with a bent clutch fork. that would cause stress on the bearing collar. Or you have a clutch pressure plate issue that is bendign the clutch for and causing the bearing to not make even contact against the clutch spring fingers.

Just get another tranny, I'm probably going with the 3.55 on mine ;)

Id go with another tranny as well, seems almost easier to drop it and install a new one, bout a 2 day project for yourself without help. Hell i could swap one out now in about 6 hrs tops... im getting better at it.

If you want something easier id recomend you to go to a 3g eclipse... our 2g's deff have tranny problems and it seems you are an unfortunate soul that gets the shaft for the rest of us.