So I figured that my TOB went out since this LOUD clacking noise when the clutch isn't engaged. I've never done any drivetrain work, but I have pulled the head off a couple of times. I gotta say that this thing is a pain in the but! I pulled out the tranny..well I literally dropped the tranny on the deck and dragged it. I inspected the TOB and yup I could move the bearing around. I was kinda worried about the TOB cuz I accidently broke off the plasitc tabs. I just hope that the TOB stays in the right position on the fork. The next thing was lining up the tranny back on the engine. That was a POS especially trying to balance the damn thing on a small jack. Took an hour or two with my buddy jacking up the tranny and engine up and down. I got the driver side motor mount first then the front bottom. I had to take off my front bumper to make it easier to slide it in. Well that's where I'm at right now...garage floor covered in grease, tranny oil and tools.
Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

practice makes perfect. I drop my trans and reinstall it in just over 2 hours. You'll get it!

glad to see you found your problem.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
practice makes perfect.

It's a fucking pain in the ass. I'd rather pull the engine than drop the damn tranny. Last time, I had help. run4cvr was lying on the deck, sort of benching the tranny, while I guided it into place to slip a bolt through a mount. He shifted his grip and pinned my right hand between the trans and the frame. Hurt like a bitch, but I felt it was fitting, considering how earlier in the year, we lowered the motor onto my hand and bent the trim at the base of the windshield with the weight of it all. Engine's on the left. Tranny's on the right. :shrug

You are not alone in dealing with this suck.

Thanks guys. I guess a tranny jack would solve the problem of trying to level the tranny while jacking it up or even an engine hoist would be even better. Practice does make perfect; after I pulled the head off a few times I can get it done in no time, but I don't plan to be pulling the tranny out anytime soon after this. The only thing I have not done yet is to yank the engine out, but now that I've done this it should be easier if I do it. I'm kinda worried that the TOB won't line up with the fork.
Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

got any pointers???....i got to do the same job soon...my tob isnt too bad yet but its getting ther

I used Armonds write-up, in addition I'd say
1) Drain your tranny fluid
2) Get some long extensions for the rear mount
3) Remove the front bumper for more room
4) I didn't know how to remove the shifter cables so I just unbolted the bracket
5)Have another jack to support the engine, I used my spare jack
6) I removed the lower control arm (the front one) to swing the hub out
7) Make sure the axles are in all the way or the LCA won't bolt up
6) HAVE A BUDDY HELP YOU

Yeah I heard this sucks. Im about to do this also, Ill have video / pictures of the process for yall.

Its not hard at all. I have it down to removal in 1 hour but thats with doing it several times already. Take you time and be patient.

Terry

Quick question, what tools would I be needing for this. I have a ton but they are all in this huge tool box, I need to digg them out. You think the cherry picker could be used to mount the tranny back in?

Here is a list of what i use:

Sockets 1/4 drive:
10mm

sockets 3/8 drive:
12mm
13mm for only like 3 nuts
14mm
15mm
1" extension
4" extension
12" extension

Sockets 1/2 drive:

17mm
18mm
1-1/16 or 1-1/8 socket for axle nut

12" extension
8" extension

1/2" impact
1/2 hand ratchet
3/8 impact
3/8 hand ratchet
3/8 air ratchet
1/4 hand ratchet and extension

8" prybar
36" prybar.....used to move the trans a bit to line up the roll bracket upon re-install

wrenches:
15mm....trans drain plug
17mm....2 of these on ratcheting
18mm
1/2" for battery terms, i have aftermarket batt connectors you might need 10mm for stockers
8" adjustable wrench for removing the reverse sensor and using that as fill hole.

needle nose pliers
large screwdriver flat tip
10" Stork needle nose....makes it easier to re-install shifter cable clips
Smaller screwdriver flat tip
#2 phillips screwdriver

I always remove the axles completely, i find it easier so the first time the axles come out i use a FWD axle puller. this is preference and not always nec.


Obviously you can tell i have a lot more to work with......i used to be a mechanic so my garage is like a shop. The amount of tools i have make it so fast. if you down have air tools you still wont have any issues, the airtools just speed things up.

Terry

Alright, got the tools for it, now I need a helping hand and a bit of luck.

I don't want to see what mine looks like...haven't started yet from fear alone :(

Im just scared, ive never done something that heavy on my car. I guess ill be a learning experience. No one learns w/o atleat experimenting lol

I just recently rebuilt my motor w/out pulling it outta the car, so I guess I could do this haha. It's just all about getting the balls to take that first plunge in.

I used a 32 mm for the axle nut but that just becuase my buddys useing my SAE Sockets. A hammer and a 18" pry bar works aswell to take the axles out. Get a FSM to help you out along the way.

Dirk