Stage I- High clamp pressure plate with organic disc
- Steel Flywheel Included. 295 ft-lb SD851 $329.00
Stage II- High clamp pressure plate with kevlar disc
- Steel Flywheel Included. 360 ft-lb SD852 $399.00
clutch with flywheel


Is one of these any good?? Is a Steel Flywheel any good??

We carry Spec Clutches, and are actually concidering a group buy on them at the moment, any of the 5 stages.

The steel flywheel is going to be the same set up as you are running stock, same weight etc. The upgrade to the aluminum flywheel is going to reduce the rotational mass of the clutch freeing up a few ponies.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
Mods List: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/sig.htm

Well, I bought a Sachs High Performance Clutch today off Ebay. From what I am told, they make clutches for high performance car companies, so I went with it. Plus it was only 303.20 shipped to my door. It comes with the flywheel as well. I should have my car back on the road by next thursday, if everything goes well. Does anyone have a write up on how to get the tranny out of the car? That would be a world of help. TIA

Originally posted by TJEclipse
Well, I bought a Sachs High Performance Clutch today off Ebay. From what I am told, they make clutches for high performance car companies, so I went with it. Plus it was only 303.20 shipped to my door. It comes with the flywheel as well. I should have my car back on the road by next thursday, if everything goes well. Does anyone have a write up on how to get the tranny out of the car? That would be a world of help. TIA

pull tires and axels, pull intake, starter, crossmember, driver side motor mount and both anti-roll mounts. Support the trans with a hoist or something and unbolt it. It's held to the block with about 4 or 5 bolts.

The trick is getting it back on. :7


I am using a spec stage 3 and I like it so far. It makes the clutch pedal really light, and it engages at a higher point. I kinda like where it engages because I shift and press/depress at the same time. So I am actually shifting while the clutch pedal is still moving but has already disengaged the clutch. I drive in traffic all the time and it doesn't bother me at all. I guess it holds 450 ft/lbs.

great so should i let someone else do it? Satan is wanting 400 bones to do it and Pepboys is wanting 246. I have the money to get it professionally done, but I dont want to spend it. (gots bills to pay). I heard someone say that it only took them like a hour and a half to get the tranny out.

i do all my own work, you should too ;) thats half the fun man! put it in, we'll help you if you get stuck. 2gnt is the universal coupon for fixing your dsm, thats fo sho. bust it out imo :thumbsup
_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

i Have a friend of mine that says that he is going to help me out with it but I am just scared that I am going to fuck something up. I cant afford another fuckup. know what I saying. Right now I am driving my sis in law's car and she needs it back. I am just scared

I would not worry about doing anything bad. If you have a friend that knows what he is doing mechanically then it should go smoothly. Just have patience and take your time with it.

Taloniized has the Spec Stage3 as well and I have not heard of any problems with his either.

Originally posted by TJEclipse
great so should i let someone else do it? Satan is wanting 400 bones to do it and Pepboys is wanting 246. I have the money to get it professionally done, but I dont want to spend it. (gots bills to pay). I heard someone say that it only took them like a hour and a half to get the tranny out.

I wouldn't call pepboys professionally done ;-) You'd be better off doing it yourself, save money, and learn a little

edit: it becomes a fun routine every so often once you do it a time or 2, just don't drop it on concrete and crack the case

sorry for going off topic, but, would a spec stage 3 be overkill for a 2gnt with a intercooled turbo setup and built bottom end? i know thats probably what it is meant for but my goal by the time this is done, is to get 300whp so i am just curious as to whether i should downgrade to a stage 2 or stick with a stage 3. tia.

Get a Stage 4. It will handle all the power you will ever produce, so that you dont have to go back in there and upgrade WHEN the boost bug bites big time. and it WILL, dont say it wont! :)

1999 C5
1997 Silver RS
Wiseco 8.8:1 Pistons(back to low compression!)
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
390's
Most current 1/8th mile time: 8.3@90mph 2.015 60'(Nitto Drag radials, i suck)

I use a SPEC stage 3. It's a nice clutch and grabs HARD. The only problem I ever have with it is the slight clutch chatter starting front a stop. Otherwise it's been a great clutch and just added to my already horrible traction problem.

Originally posted by EclipseRST
I use a SPEC stage 3. It's a nice clutch and grabs HARD. The only problem I ever have with it is the slight clutch chatter starting front a stop. Otherwise it's been a great clutch and just added to my already horrible traction problem.

same here, i had gotten my spec 3 clutch about 2 years ago and it's as of now it's gone...

i'm in the process of putting in a pt clutch cuz i don't have the money for another spec or a cm...

i think it's a good clutch but mine went in less then 2 years...

WTB: Dodge Omni


http://www.geocities.com/shadyporshe851proof/frame_content/indexframe.html

mods: star stage III clutch + 60mm tb + the normal mods, bass, lights well u get the picture