I have all of the bolts out but I can't see any good places to pry on it to get it to split. Anyone have any tips?

There are two notches on the side. Both are across from each other but they are hard to see if dirt is in then.

One way you can take them off is turn it so the bell housing is facing the up and tap up w/ a hammer in a circular pattern. There are a few overhang edges on the bell housing half that you can hit on.

Hope this helps
Brian

Yeap. it's doweled in place, so a few hammer blows are required to seperate it. Just try not to crack the case.

Wow that was easy!!! Thanks guys. I never would have thought to beat it with a hammer. My tranny was leaking so I'm going to reseal it but I don't see any sign of gasket maker or sealant. Is that normal? Also should I replace anything while I'm in there. I know people have a problem with some input seal or something. All I see that is replaceable is this round bearing on top of the gears. Is that it or should I replace it? The tranny has about 90K miles on it.

Stock, the sealant is very thin and clear - you really can't tell if there is anything there. Use red locktite to reseal it (i think it's locktite 518)

Nothing inside needs to be replaced unless you break it. be very careful with the output shaft roller bearing. it's very easy to catch it on its race and snap the plastic cage when trying to fit the case back together. One thing that we've found helpful is to goo the crap out of that bearing with some assembly grease, and fit it in place on the output shaft. it helps to keep it in place while reassembling the two case halves.

Ok two last questions. Do you or anyone else remember which way the output bearing goes? I'm thinking the smaller end of the ring goes on the output shaft and the big end goes into the bell housing. Is that right or backwards?

And is red locktight the same thing as anerobic sealer? What should I ask for at the dealer?

>Ok two last questions. Do you or anyone else remember which
>way the output bearing goes? I'm thinking the smaller end of
>the ring goes on the output shaft and the big end goes into
>the bell housing. Is that right or backwards?
>
>And is red locktight the same thing as anerobic sealer? What
>should I ask for at the dealer?

i'm not sure which way but it will only go one way. see which way the output bearing will fit into the other side of the tranny case. I'm almost positive that anerobic sealer is the same as red loctite. I used anerobic sealer and its been great for the past 4 months

>And is red locktight the same thing as anerobic sealer? What
>should I ask for at the dealer?

Red locktite IS an anaerobic sealant. You don't have to get it from the dealer - you can pick it up at your local parts store, i think.

Output shaft bearing - this pic help?

Yes Dino that helps a lot. It looks like the smaller diameter is facing up. Thanks for the tip on the loctite. That should save a lot not having to buy it from the dealer.

Red loctite can mean two things. One is the sooper strong thread locker you see in the store all the time. This is Loctite #271.

The anaerobic sealant Loctite for our cars is Loctite #518. There's actually thousands of different loctites, many of which are red. Check the part #'s.

The factory specified anaerobic sealant is actually Green. You can only get it from a Dodge dealer, Mitsubishi doesn't stock it. I just used Loctite 518 for my bottom end

This Locktite 518, is this what we use on the bedplate-to-block seal?? I'll be needing this in a bit.

I had a hell of a time finding the 518 when I needed it to install my cams. I eventually found it at a local Grainger outlet.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

ExtremeRS- Yes, anaerobic sealant is mandatory for a rebuild. I used it on the bedplate-block, oilpump, cam plates, waterpump seal, and wherever else I could find metal bolted to metal. Zero leaks so far.

If you're having a hard time finding Loctite 518, Toyota dealerships usually carry it in stock.