http://www.asog.net/viewtopic.php?t=56348
and here too http://www.asog.net/viewtopic.php?t=56345

I did it, its not worth anything, you loose passing gear on the highway (which SUCKS royally), no chirping of tires, no nothing, I actually ran soo rich it wasnt even funny, I could smell raw gas.

Sorry guys this mods not for me, and probably not for anyone.
Maybe with more power it would be noticable, but for my modded avenger it did NOTHING.

You dont get a cel which is good but other than that I think it actually made the car slower


basically car is normal until you get on the highway, and if your cruising at 70 or whatever and slam the gas to pass it just stays in 4th (which sucks)

Sorry it was worth a try

damn got so enthusiastic...my poor ass is gonna go back to looking.:+

actually now that Im messing with it cause I havent hooked the wire back up yet it actually does work I guess

I can brake torque and lay rubber instead of the engine bogging down, so I guess it does work, you really need to install a switch on it though so you can get passing gear function back when you need it then hit the switch and be able to peel out.

and actually its kind of fun to corner with, you can just mash the gas down and not have to worry about switching into 3rd and rocketing off out of control. its more of a gradual accelleration into the turns, its fun.

At first I didnt notice anything except for the loss of passing gear at 70mph+ and yes at first I smelled raw gas too, but now I dont notice the gas and the car does shift much harder (TCM must be learning). A switch is a good idea, this is similar to the TQ lockup mod in that you only want it working sometimes.
Im gonna rig up a box with TQ lockup/Torque reduction and autostick buttons. The Torque reduction button would work good with the autostick causing the gears to stay where they are instead of the tcm bumping you down into 3rd for passing.

and yes with a higher stall TQ/shift kit ,autostick, high enegry rebuild kit , this mod and the TQ lockup mod these trannies could be fun for once. :cheers

Any chance of a formal write up?
It seems that not everything is clear, between a reply here and a post there some things are foggy.

Even you mentioned you forgot to plug a wire back in.

Just a thought.

is it just the 4-3 shift that wont work or does it not downshift at all when you mash the gas (3-2 and 2-1)?
That is really shitty that the ecu takes torque away to soften shifts

you only loose passing gear when you are cruizin in 4th at 70+mph and try to slam on the gas it wont go back to 3rd for that passing gear <-- thats why wiring a switch is good.

all you do is just cut wire 63 (orange with black stripe)from the ecu and either just leave it and tape the cut wires up, or wire in a switch to it, so you can turn it on and off. I will do a write up if you want. This only works on automatics with the TCU seperate from the ECU. basicaly anyone with a pin 63 thats orange with a black stripe.

like this

Stock
TCMpin10--------------pin63ECU

Modified
TPMpin10------Switch-----pin63ECU
thats it

damn you mcgyvr. Show us a new mod after I total my car! lol

I coulda used that too, cause i was coming around a turn and pushed the gas and i slammed into 3rd gear and then slammed into a pole.

Course I told the insurance I lost control and the pole hit me:)

Oooh...this sounds sweet. So, we could get rid of that irritating bog when you slam the gas from a stop. I've been dying to eliminate that. I'll have to see if this is possible on 1995's.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

This sounds cool do a writr up for us dumbies. And the hole not down shifting for passing in 4th why not just turn overdrive off? this sounds like a simple solusion to me but hey I have no clue abought the mod etheir.

Any luck on the 1995s. Damn that model year, oh well I guess there are some (obd1/cel) advantages we have.....

any1 else try this mod yet, how does it work, i have the lock up switch but i didnt notice anything great bout that one so i am hoping there is a more noticeable diff. with this one. cuz i need all the help i can get off the line, maybe now ill be able to chirp the tires goin into 2nd at 5psi of boost or break em loose :thumbsup



Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit

for 1995 model it's the wire from pin 8 of the PCM to pin 10 of the TCM

check it here with other stuff that Corbin may like

http://www.asog.net/modules.php?set_albumName=album156&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

Alain

Sweet! I may try it out. I'll say it again. Damn 95s.:wary

I'll have to look into that some more. I've got a tach wire on pin 8. Perhaps they number the pins differently. What book is that and where can it be sourced?

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Hmmm, well, looks like I'll be waiting for further clarification from Corbin. Keep me posted bro!:thumbsup

Originally posted by Corbin
I'll have to look into that some more. I've got a tach wire on pin 8. Perhaps they number the pins differently. What book is that and where can it be sourced?

those are scans from a technical training manual made by Chrysler for internal use
they are usually not available to public
I was lucky to buy a big bunch of thoses on Ebay including 2 books on the A604, 1 on the injection system 1 on the 2.4 engine and 1 on the Eclipse/Talon suspension

Alain

well i went out last night and cut the wire (bottom harness orange w/black stripe) and today i take it out for a drive and the car just feels slower, i noticed no difference off the line and the one time i did open it up my car didnt shift at redline it shifted way earlier,(i dont even know exactly what it shifted at cuz i was lookin at the boost guage at the time) but def. not near redline i would say 5k-5.5k. so so far this mod is hurting me but i think i am gonna let it og for a while and maybe the computer just needs time to see what hte hell is goin on, and i really dont wanna reset the ecu cuz then my car is gonna run like shit for 2-3 days


Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit

I dont know if this was already discussed, but it looks too me that the orange w/black wire is the wire from pin #4 on connector c-14 too pin #9 on connector b-85. In other words, it's the power source to the Overdrive switch, I could be reading this wrong but putting a switch on that wire seems like adding a switch to an already switched source. Ill keep looking at it though.

Originally posted by DSMkarz
This sounds cool do a writr up for us dumbies. And the hole not down shifting for passing in 4th why not just turn overdrive off? this sounds like a simple solusion to me but hey I have no clue abought the mod etheir.

as i was reading this, i was thinking the same exact thing. with overdrive off, you would be able to downshift to third gear. i am surprised no one really touched upon the "overdrive" factor. i haven't tried the mod yet but for the ones who have done it, how does overdrive off affect things at 70mph? with the wire snipped, will the computer not even allow you to downshift by turning off overdrive? i ll try out the mod in a few weeks after i take my car to satan for a damn CEL 31.

Ive done it by shifting into OD when I need to pass, but I really dont like beating on the tranny and to me thats what it feels like is happening when you do that, just too much heat at one time. its not a smooth downshift at all

i must say after havin this mod for a while, i say it is the best free mod you can do to ur auto car. the upshifts r so damn hard the whole car jerks foward and the tires chirp into second almost everytime, its great. i didnt really notice anything off the line, but the shifts, OMG.

Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit

Ok, I have been scanning the circuit diagrams that I have from the dealer manuals and I only found two orange/black wires, one from PCM #63 to ECM #50, the other from ECM #9 to the overdrive switch C-14 #4. The ECM #10 wire looks like it goes to the pressure soleniod switch, I cant seem to find PCM #10, but I know it exists. Please someone tell me Im bass-ackwards and I need to just cut the orange/black on PCM #63. If it helps to know I drive a 98 eclipse rs. Thanx for any and all help.

It will be an Orange wire w/ a Black stripe, Pin # 63 at the ECU under the hood by the battery.
JUST CUT IT you can always hook it back up

Just cut it this weekend. I hooked a switch to it and Im thinking I should have soldered the connections as opposed to butt splices, Ill do that tonight. It doesn't seem consistent, like it only works when it wants to, but Ill give it more time cause after reading this forum it sounds like the computer might have to "learn" how to deal with its new condition. If that is the case though, wouldn't it have to "re-learn" everytime I flipped the switch. Oh well, Ill learn more as I move along, damn a/t tranny.

Okay I just did this about 20 minutes ago, took it for a drive. The engine still seems to bog down while brake torquing(sp), the upshifts are definitly harder. BUT, she redlines at 5k now. Will the computer eventually get the picture and redline like normal again or do I need to un-do what i've done to my baby? If it shifted at redline this would be a sweet mod. As for now i'm skeptical though.

it will eventually shift at redline

quick questions guys... this is for your electro heads..aka mcgyvr


if your install a l.e.d w/ a voltage regulating circut... cant we get the same results as cutting... but still maintaining the circut to the ecu.. with in turn will make the ecu think the wire is still attached and recieving a signal also keeping our 4-3 shift...

just a thaught man
since u plan on making the boxes again / this would be a good feature..
jake



AEM cam Gears,MSD ignition,Chikira 4-2-1 header,Custom 2.5" exhast,Pacsetter hiflo cat ,head p/p , intake p/p 2mm oversize tit valves , t/b p/p , shiftkit , TQ lockup mod , and much mor

Originally posted by mcgyvr
It will be an Orange wire w/ a Black stripe, Pin # 63 at the ECU under the hood by the battery. JUST CUT IT you can always hook it back up

Ok, I have read that the ECU is behind the center console, and I have heard that it is under the hood. That is the only thing confusing me about this.

Is it this thing?
http://www12.brinkster.com/bimacl/images/engine.html

Originally posted by Dracas

Originally posted by mcgyvr It will be an Orange wire w/ a Black stripe, Pin # 63 at the ECU under the hood by the battery. JUST CUT IT you can always hook it back up

Ok, I have read that the ECU is behind the center console, and I have heard that it is under the hood. That is the only thing confusing me about this. Is it this thing? http://www12.brinkster.com/bimacl/images/engine.html

There is the car computer under the hood, and the tcu (the transmission computer) that is in between the dash/console area. The orange wire from the car computer makes its way from the hood computer, to the tcu.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, turbo xs rfl, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

Ok, I get it now, thanks.

Heh its been a month since last post...so is this mod made possible for the 95s?

I noticed something after I finally installed a switch. After leaving it off for a while, and you flip the switch to reconnect the wires, It doesn't seem to work like it should until you turn the car off and back on. I drove around with it d/c for a while, then when i flipped the switch to regain passing gear at 60/70+ the car still stayed in 4th when i hit the gas.

Oh well, its not that big of a deal.

ANy 95's trying this yet?

bump same question.

STILL no answers on a '95? Anybody?

Originally posted by mcgyvr
you only loose passing gear when you are cruizin in 4th at 70+mph and try to slam on the gas it wont go back to 3rd for that passing gear <-- thats why wiring a switch is good.

I hate to be one who brings a dead thread back to life but I am having this very issue. At EXACTLY 70mph the tranny will shift up into 4th gear no matter what(OD switch on OR off). My car was never modded by the previous owner so I know this mod hasn't been done before. I assume the issue is a bad connection on this wire between the TCU and ECU but I wanted to know if people who have done this mod had it shift into 4th while accelerating past 70mph while in 3rd while in WOT?(regardless of OD switch setting)

Thanks guys

PS: If the OD was off and I was above 70mph (meaning its in 4th even though it shouldnt be) the second it hits 69mph it shifts back into 3rd gear....incase someone was going to request that info for troubleshooting

I believe your feeling torque convertor lock-up and not a gear change.
With OD off it should never go into 4th. but lockup feels similar

Would the TC lock-up be so "exact" at 70mph like it seems to be with this mod? The "EXACTLY" 70mph drawback is what led me to believe this was my problem rather than the TC lockup. Doesn't the TC lock-up have to do with disconnecting the brake switch signal??

Ok, after checking out these symptoms for a few days now (its not constantly an issue) I now know it is definitely not the TC lock-up. It is 100% upshifting into 4th gear at EXACTLY 70mph (regardless if OD is on or off). Like I said, this doesn't happen all the time so sometimes if I have it floored in 3rd, it will stay in 3rd gear until redline. I am still leaning towards the torque reduction mod being the area where the TCU is being affected.

install a diode inline to the output of the switch ie: current flow toward ecu... and your fixed



mods include but not limited to:
engine: AEM cai , pp head / TB / intake runners, Chikira 4-2-1 header , custom 2.5" exhast / pacesetter high flow cat/flowmaster2 muff,1mm over sized SS valves,PT valvetrain, AEM cam gears/pully set, prothane motormounts,440 injectors , ground kit.
Trans: Custom ATX (1 of a kind) poly-graphite steels , kevlar clutches , final drive , shift kit,3500 stall TC, Tourqe Wonder trans chip ($120.00 2gnt price only!!email for order info)

What switch are you referring to? I haven't done the actual mod to my car if thats what you assumed. I am just having the symptoms of the mod on a stock setup i.e: losing the 4-3 downshift above 70mph+

This mod somehow screwed my tranny. Was throwing 3 codes after a few days (shift solenoids). It now pops around and sticks in neutral sometimes. Most of the time its smooth though.

Originally posted by jack_of_trades
What switch are you referring to? I haven't done the actual mod to my car if thats what you assumed. I am just having the symptoms of the mod on a stock setup i.e: losing the 4-3 downshift above 70mph+

This thread never seems to die,lol. Oh, I found the problem I was having back then. My coolant temp was going below 175 degrees due to my thermostat getting hung up and never closing completely. The TCU still considers the engine/tranny to be "cold" if it sees the coolant temp below 175 degrees. It doesn't allow the tranny to max out 3rd gear as a safety precaution for the engine/tranny.

nice find

I cut the wire and i drove it all day today and have noticed it shifts a LITTLE bit harder.I have a shiftkit as well and I am turboed. I guess it takes a few days for the ECU to learn though.Since most of you claimed outstanding results.